In October 2020, my dad and I embarked on an epic South Dakota adventure, which included a 5K (for both of us), a half marathon (for me), and a lot of exploring, hiking, and memories. Now, exactly one year later, I invite you to follow along as I take a multi-post look back at this incredible vacation in an incredible part of the country!
Catch up on the trip by reading Part I, Part II, Part III, and Part IV!
Our last full day in South Dakota was going to involve a hike to the summit of Black Elk Peak (elevation 7,244 feet – the tallest mountain between the Rockies and the Pyrenees!). I had been interested in hiking this in 2010, but we weren’t able to swing it then. It looked like 2020 would be our time!
When we returned to the hotel after our day at the Badlands, I researched Black Elk Peak hiking routes. Trail #9 sounded like the best one for our purposes.
Wednesday (Oct. 7, exactly a year ago!) was a beautiful day for a hike. We got out the door shortly after 7:00 to head to the trailhead at Sylvan Lake. The reflection of the trees and sky on the lake was stunning; one of my biggest regrets is not taking a picture of this for some reason.
The trail to the summit of Black Elk Peak was about 3.5 miles up and 3.5 back, so we went prepped with snacks and layers and water. We started around 8 a.m.
The trail was – you guessed it – beautiful! It was a cool morning, but we both started in T-shirts.
At first we were both sucking wind (#altitudeproblems) and trying to talk. We climbed a good bit right away, but it didn’t feel too intense to me. I just loved looking around – at the ground, at the trees, at the gorgeous rock formations, at the layered mountains in the distance when we reached a clearing.
At our first clearing, we could see Black Elk Peak waaaaaay off in the distance. Although it honestly seemed dauntingly far away to both of us, we talked about how we were still up for it and about how running distances are just as far; we just can’t see the destination, so they don’t always seem as daunting.
The trail climbed some more and looped around, and soon we were looking back and downward at the clearing where we had just been. Black Elk Peak was no longer in sight, but we were making headway.
After we climbed a bit, the trail descended, which was nice except that we knew that just meant we’d have to climb some more later.
Dad: No! Why are we going down!
One thing that had puzzled me was that I’d read online (and then we’d read on one of the informational signs) that anyone could hike the trail, but you needed a permit if you were going to summit. Well, we didn’t see anywhere at the trailhead or Sylvan Lake where we could get a permit, so we just went without. But still, I wondered where we should have gotten one and if we’d get in trouble for not having one.
No need to worry! After about 45 minutes of hiking, we reached a point where we were officially entering the Black Elk Wilderness – and that’s where they had a little box with permits to fill out. Problem solved!
Dad attached the permit to my pack, and we went on our way. The trail was completely wooded at this point – downhill for a bit, over some muddy areas, and winding uphill.
I had no idea how far we’d walked of the 3.5-mile journey to the summit, but I could tell we were getting closer when the terrain started to change. The trees became more sparse and the sky was more evident beyond the pine trees overhead. The trail got a bit more rocky too, and we were careful with our footing.
Finally we really broke through the trees and had the most gorgeous view! Visibility for miles and miles on a perfectly clear day – rock formations, the Cathedral Spires, mountains…ahhh, I just wanted to soak it all in as much as I could.
We were close now, probably within a quarter-mile of the summit, and the views were getting better and better. Have you ever done something so amazing, so special, that you are fully aware in that moment just how mind-blowingly incredible it is? That’s how I felt in those moments – just fully aware of how blessed I was to be on that trail on such a beautiful day, seeing those wonderful sights with my dad.
Before long, we reached our final turnoff for Black Elk Peak and Harney Tower. We were almost there! (Strangely, we weren’t sucking wind as much as we had been at the beginning, despite the fact that we’d climbed about 1,000 feet of elevation!)
The trail opened up into a clearing, and we briefly took in the view before heading on. Up on the right we could see Harney Tower and a pole with bandanas, etc.; it kind of made us feel like we were on a mountain in Nepal or something!
The trail looped up to Harney Tower and led us into a stone stairwell that wound up into the tower and on top. The whole atmosphere was so cool! We emerged from the stone and were halfway up the tower.
What a view it was! I have no clue how far we could see, but we could definitely see four states. Just beautiful scenery as far as the eye could see. Rock formations, forests, mountains, cliffs, plains, ahhh.
We went up higher into the tower, where there was an overlook. We stayed out there a while and got some pictures.
After taking in the view for a bit, we went down to the main level and ate some snacks. Quite the scenic meal location, if you ask me!
In all, we spent more than an hour at the summit and then began our descent. We were careful with our footing as we went down, but I was still pausing to look around and enjoy. It’s hard to know whether I truly soaked in the view as much as I could have, but I really believe I did.
The descent was pretty rapid, and we lost elevation quickly! We took it easy on the rocky parts but picked up the pace when the going got easier. Dad even jogged some on the way back. I did not! We still made pretty good time, and before I knew it we were back at the permit place. We finished filling out the form and put the rest of it in the box.
Soon we were back at the first overlook where we’d seen Black Elk Peak way off in the distance.
When we exited the trail, it was bittersweet. On one hand, we’d done it! We’d summited the mountain I’d wanted to climb 10 years ago! On the other hand, it was over!
We took our stuff back to the car and then walked around Sylvan Lake. So beautiful! Sylvan Lake had been one of our favorites 10 years ago, so walking there was definitely nostalgic.
After saying goodbye (or “see you later”) to the lake, we headed to Needles Highway, where we knew we’d see some spectacular views and drive through three tunnels in the rocks.
When we got to the Needles Eye, Dad stayed in the car and I got out to explore a bit. I climbed back up into the rocks where Mom and I had 10 years ago, taking in the views there before climbing on the other side where one of the tunnels was.
Once I returned to the car, Dad drove through the tunnel with no problem (at least, from my perspective) and we continued on the highway. We drove through another cool tunnel and saw some other incredible rock formations.
Needles Highway was long but incredible. Knowing that we were leaving the next day, I really wanted to take it all in and enjoy the views and the time with Dad.
We picked our way south until we hit Route 16, where we turned left to go to the Coolidge Gift Shop. I definitely stocked up on souvenirs there. No regrets whatsoever!
Purchases in hand, we drove to downtown Custer, where we walked around and stopped in a few shops. We were pretty close to the Custer Skywalk, so we took our stuff to the car and walked over.
Let me tell you: Dad and I did not remember how intense the Custer Skywalk trail was! Sure, we were doing it on the heels of a 7-mile hike, but still. Steep and long with awkward steps! The scenery on the way up was nice, though. And, of course, the view at the top was amazing and totally worth it!
It was about dinnertime, so we headed to Black Hills Burger and Bun Co. in Custer. (It had just been rated the No. 1 burger in South Dakota, so we couldn’t NOT go there!)
It was obvious why these burgers had received their recent accolades. There was just something special about them! I got the Hot Granny with a bison burger (bacon, cream cheese, jalapenos, and sweet-spicy jalapeno sauce) and fries. Dad got the Black Hills Blues with a beef burger (blue cheese crumbles, bacon, garlic aioli, and grilled onions) and Granny’s beans. Would highly recommend!
After dinner, we made our way to a homemade ice cream place, Horatio’s. Even though I wasn’t super hungry, I wanted the Horatio’s experience!
The shop is named after Horatio Ross, who had accompanied General Custer on his expedition to the Black Hills in 1874 and discovered gold. He claimed several sites and stayed in the town of Custer for 30 years.
Just like Horatio Ross found gold in Custer, we found the hidden nugget of Horatio’s Ice Cream. Dad got two scoops of chocolate in a dish. I got a waffle cone with Iron Mountain Road (like Rocky Road, only more geographically appropriate) and a scoop of Cookie Butter. SO GOOD.
The night was a tad chilly, especially after ice cream, so we went back to the car and drove to the hotel…
…to pack. Dun, dun, dun!